Surfing History Timeline: A Reminder of Distant Memories

The evolution of surfing began somewhere around 2000 B.C. in the Polynesian culture. When the Polynesians were forced to migrate to the islands of Hawaii, they used highly developed water skills to their advantage. Fishing was a primary source of food during these times, and without the equipment we have today, the art of fishing was a very different experience. Without the use of boats, fishing required the Polynesians to do most of their fishing while swimming in the water.

The Polynesians were constantly swimming, before their migration, during, and after, so it seems natural that they were the first to introduce the art of surfing to our culture. The idea of surfing was formed when the Polynesian people discovered how much faster they could return to shore when “riding the waves”. Once they had made a catch, the next step would be for them to find a nice wave and “ride it” back to shore. It was only a short time after, that the Polynesian people began crafting various wooden platforms, which in today’s society would be considered surfboards, albeit funny looking surfboards.

Surfing became a huge tradition within the Polynesian culture, a tradition that has been carried on for centuries. Although they did not have all of the advanced technology that we do today, the Polynesian people certainly had tremendous skills when on top of a board. These people were so talented in fact, they were able to see, spear, and catch a fish while riding a wave back to shore. If someone was to have introduced the art of “new school” surfing to this “prehistoric” era (just kidding), they might have been truly and utterly surprised as to what these people could do. Imagine the skill and concentration it would require to not only spot a fish, but spear a fish, and without full concentration on the wave itself. Now that’s something!

From Polynesians to World Championships, surfing has been steadily on the rise for centuries. Some of the most well-known events in the modern era surfing society, such as the U.S. Surfing Championship, and the East and West Coast Surfing Championships were all created right around 1960. The sport was getting a lot more attention around this time, and professional surfers were now getting media attention from these big events. Although the events were not nearly as large as today, the U.S. World Championships for surfing created quite a bit of hype in the coastal areas. This was also the time when the movie “Gidget” was released, and although ridiculed by many surfers it sparked a frenzy of viewers to rush out and hop on boards all over the nation.

As the 1970’s rolled around, well known surfing legend Mark Richards had taken over the spotlight. Considered by some to be the best surfer that ever lived, Mark Richards began his championship career in surfing at age six. Mark was born in Newcastle Australia and found surfing through his father, an avid surfer and owner of the town’s only surf shop. He was a natural and prodigy of his age, winning numerous competitions by the age of 14. In the late 60’s and early 70’s however, professional surfing did not exist, meaning the only way to get into the industry was to become a “shaper”.

After a number of wins in major events during the mid 1970’s, Richards would win his first World Championship in 1979, sparking the beginning of a historic run that would launch him into the history books for a lifetime. Richards would go on to win 3 more World Championships in a row, giving him a total of four consecutive titles and a prolific household name that could not be matched. Many people believed that no other surfer would ever come close to this amazing feat, however, the future had different plans.

Kelly Slater was born February 11th, 1972 in Cocoa Beach Florida. Kelly was another childhood prodigy like Mark Richards, but had the benefit of watching Richard’s action while growing up. Kelly Slater was dominant in his early teenage years winning 4 amateur National Titles and 6 other titles to go along with them. The public’s hype on Slater had been steadily growing, and by the time he was in his late teens was seen in numerous ads and television commercials with his brother Sean. There was so much talk about Slater that it was an intense battle to see which brand would get him to sign, with Quicksilver ultimately striking gold.

Kelly Slater turned from amateur to professional at the age of 21 in 1990, and in his very first year on the circuit, won his first of many World Championships. He became the youngest surfer in history to win a World Championship, and by this time the hype had been solidified. He was God-Like to viewers and fellow surfers, as his abilities on the board were breathtaking, and his talent like no other before. Kelly Slater showed the world how to own a wave, instead of the average surfer letting the wave take the lead.

Over the following years, Kelly Slater would break nearly every record in the books. After winning 5 consecutive world titles, and destroying his entire competitive playing field, Kelly decided into semi-retirement. He went into acting, being a lead on the well-known show “Baywatch”, as well as some singing with popular bands. After some time off, Kelly decided he wasn’t truly ready to retire from his favorite part of life and re-joined the pro circuit. By this time, a newer generation of surfers had arrived on the scene, and after his 6th title had been won, newfound competition in Andy Irons would arise.

Irons beat Slater heads up in 2003 to take down his second straight World Title, sending Slater helplessly back to the drawing board. Both men had been on fire up until the huge upset in 03, so the defeat was of a huge surprise to everyone, especially Kelly Slater. Although many would have thrown in the towel or faded away in similar situations, Slater instead came back to win three more World Championships from 05-08. He had secured more records than one could easily count, becoming undoubtedly the greatest surfer to ever live.

Although many had once believed that Mark Richards breathtaking performances and records could never again be matched, Kelly Slater was on a mission to prove otherwise. Kelly finished with 9 world titles, securing both youngest and oldest to ever win a World Championship. It is legends like Kelly Slater that show us what true drive and determination really look like. Slater has transformed the way we look at surfing forever by his amazingly flawless abilities on a board.

Today, hundreds and thousands of people travel all over the world to hop on the baddest waves in the country. Surfing has proven itself to be popular among everyone from young teens to entire families, and isn’t uncommon to see all ages and sexes riding the waves whenever you are near a beach. The art of surfing has been slowly perfecting from the time of its creation, making it one of the most exciting experiences you will ever have.

When taking a thorough look into the past of surfing, it makes me wonder what will happen in the sport another 10 years from now. Will there be another surfer who can defy all odds and compete with Kelly Slater’s extraordinary record? Will creative breakthroughs change the form and even style to which we currently ride the waves? Can surfing become one of the top 3 sports in the country, beating out rivals such as football and baseball? These questions will keep us wondering and thinking about what kind of miracles can and will occur in our future. These questions will give us the DRIVE!

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